René Desmaison

René Desmaison, born April 14, 1930 in Bourdeilles (Dordogne) and died September 28, 2007 in Marseille, was a French mountaineer. A high-level mountain guide and climber, René Desmaison, from the mid-1950s and for over 30 years, completed numerous first ascents of great difficulty in the Alps, the Himalayas, and the Andes. A highly publicized mountaineer, he was involved in several controversies. Upon the death of his mother, the young René Desmaison, who was not yet 14, left Marsac near Périgueux and followed his godfather Paul Roze to Antony in the Paris region, where he joined the scout movement. There, he met Pierre Kohlmann, with whom he practiced Sunday climbing in the Fontainebleau forest, along with other young Antony residents, including future mountaineers Bernard Lagesse and André Bertrand. René Desmaison completed his military service in Briançon in a ski scout section. He was a sergeant and participated in the military ski championship. Back in Paris, he married and had two daughters and a son, Pascal. After working as a salesman in a sports store, he became a visiting retailer of household appliances. He spent long weekends in the mountains or went climbing in Fontainebleau and the Saussois rocks, where he met mountaineer Jean Couzy in 1954. This encounter with Jean Couzy was decisive: together, they completed many major ascents, as well as first ascents, until Jean Couzy's death in the mountains four years later. In the early 1960s, he separated from his wife and married Simone Damiani (aka Simone France), an actress and sister of writer and filmmaker José Giovanni, with whom he climbed in Fontainebleau. René Desmaison thus entered the world of film stars. Before becoming a high mountain guide in 1961, he was already a mountaineering professor at ENSA from 1960; attached to his independence, he left ENSA in 1963. Pioneers of great winter mountaineering, René Desmaison climbed both in the Alps and in the Himalayas and found media coverage. A glorious…
- Known for
- Acting
- Born
- 1930-04-14 · Bourdeilles, Dordogne, France
- Died
- 2007-09-28
Known for
- Champs-Elysées (1982) — Self
- Stars at Noon (1959) — Self
- Les Coulisses De L'Exploit — Self
- Les Conquérants de l'impossible - Portrait de René Desmaison (1985) — Self
- Eric Escoffier, la Fureur de Vivre (2019) — Self (archive footage)
- When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema (2000) — Self
- Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes (1996) — Self
- Chamonix - Mont Blanc, A History of Conquests (2015) — Self (archive footage)
- Jannu, Chronicle of a Conquest (1962) — Self
- Victories on the Himalayas (1960) — Self
- Les Parois de la Mémoire - Le Pilier Central du Frêney (1994) — Self
- The Climbers (1992) — Self
- Bergwelten (2012) — Self (archive footage)