Pierre Allain

Pierre Allain, born January 7, 1904 in Mirebeau (Vienne) and died December 19, 2000 in Saint-Martin-d'Uriage (Isère), was a French mountaineer and climber. He is also an inventor of technical innovations in mountaineering. According to the minister and mountaineer Pierre Mazeaud, Pierre Allain is the “first French mountaineer”. Pierre Allain, raised in Paris, discovered mountaineering on vacation in the Alps in the 1920s. In 1930, his friend Robert Latour introduced him to climbing in the forests of Fontainebleau and Chamarande. He therefore joined the Bleau Group (including Marcel Ichac, Pierre Chevalier, Jean Deudon, Raymond Gaché, Alain Le Ray, Jacques Boell, etc.). In 1930, he made his first real mountaineering season in the Alps with Robert Latour. Like the other Parisian mountaineers, he therefore spent the summer season in the Alps and climbed the rest of the year in Fontainebleau. Among his notable ascents: In 1933: first of the south-west ridge of the Aiguille du Fou with Robert Latour. In 1934: first on the south-west ridge of Pic Sans Nom with Jean Vernet and Jean Charignon and first on the south face of La Meije to Glacier Carré with Jean Vernet and Jean Leininger. In 1935: first ascent of the north face of the Petit Dru with Raymond Leininger, then opening of a "directissime" on the south face of La Meije from the Glacier Carré, with Raymond Leininger (end of the route opened in 1934). Also first on the east face of the Dent du Caïman with Raymond Leininger. In 1936: first French expedition to the Himalayas (Karakoram) with his comrades Jean Leininger, Marcel Ichac, Jean Charignon, etc. The assault rope led by Pierre Allain reached 6,850 meters then gave up due to the monsoon storm, 3 weeks ahead of schedule. In 1937: first on the east ridge of the Dent du Crocodile with the brothers Jean Leininger and Raymond Leininger and first on the north-east ridge of the Grands Charmoz with Yves Feutren. In 1938: premiere (without throwing a rope) of Le Doigt de…
- Known for
- Acting
- Born
- 1904-01-07 · Mirebeau, France
- Died
- 2000-12-19
Known for
- Reel Rock 16 (2022) — Self (archive footage)
- Karakoram (1937) — Self
- Barefoot Charles (2022) — Self (archive footage)
- The Call Of The Peaks (1946) — Self
- When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema (2000) — Self
- La Lumière du Rocher (1986) — Self
- À l'Assaut de la Tour Eiffel (1947) — Le Vénéré Maître Grimpeur
- The Future of Climbing (2025) — Self (archive footage)
- The Climbers (1992) — Self (archive footage)